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Bikepacking, or the art of deciding what you can do without

Vadodara to Kutch and back, Sabarmati to Dandi, and a few hundred kilometres of learning that every gram you carry is a decision you already made.

  • Endurance
  • Bikepacking

Bikepacking is cycle touring with the luxuries removed. No support vehicle, no booked hotels, no crew handing you a bottle at the top of the climb. Everything you will need for the next few days is strapped to the frame, and everything strapped to the frame is weight you agreed to drag over every hill between here and the end.

That constraint is the whole sport.

The packing list is a forecast

A support crew lets you be wrong. Forgot the spare tube, misjudged the heat, underestimated the climb — someone hands you the fix. Take the crew away and your packing list becomes a prediction about the next three days that you cannot revise once you leave.

So you start thinking in probabilities rather than possibilities. Not could this happen — almost anything could — but how likely is it, how bad is it if it happens, and how much does insuring against it weigh?

A spare tube is light and the failure is certain enough: take two. A full set of tools for a repair you couldn't perform at the roadside is heavy and the failure is rare: leave it, and accept the day it costs you. Warm layers for a desert night are non-negotiable, because the downside isn't inconvenience.

You are, in effect, pricing risk with a luggage scale.

Kutch teaches you about water

Vadodara – Kutch – Vadodara crosses some of the emptiest country in western India. The thing that dominates the plan isn't the distance or the climbing. It's water: where it is, how far apart those points are, and what happens if one of them turns out to be closed.

Once you've planned a route around resupply rather than around scenery, you understand something about supply chains that no case study teaches. The constraint isn't total availability. It's availability at the point of need, and every buffer you carry to cover the gap costs you something to carry.

That is inventory theory, learned at 30°C with a bike on your back wheel.

The Salt Ride

Sabarmati to Dandi retraces the route of the 1930 Salt March. It's the only ride I've done where the history changes the experience of the road.

You are moving under your own power along a path people once walked to make a point, and the pace of a bicycle turns out to be about right for noticing that. Fast enough to cover the distance in a day, slow enough to see the country between the landmarks.

Not every ride needs a reason beyond the road being there. This one had one.

What it's actually for

People assume the point of riding long distances unsupported is toughness. It isn't, or at least that's the least interesting part. The point is that it compresses a very clean feedback loop into a couple of days:

You make a set of decisions in advance, with incomplete information, knowing you cannot revise them. Then reality tells you exactly which ones were wrong, in order, at the least convenient moment. Then you go home and pack differently.

There aren't many places in adult life where you get that loop that fast, that honestly, or that cheaply. It's the best planning practice I know, and it happens to take place outdoors on a bicycle.


If you ride and you're in India, Cycle N' Chai has been organising rides, races and bikepacking trips since 2018. Come out on one.

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